Showing posts with label Energy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Energy. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 27, 2013

Water manifold for a solar heater


Many people get the idea to heat water after attempting to drink from a hose that has been laying in the sun.  The water is hot so wouldn't it be easy to get a 100' of black irrigation tubing a coil it up. Yes this will heat water but there are problems involved with this method.

First is poor efficiency. As the water travels the length of the tube it begins to quickly gain heat, but the hotter it gets the slower it gains additional heat.  It would be better to use several short lengths to warm the water only as much as you need.  Adjusting the optimum length is more than I wish to get into, but with some experimentation you will find a range that suits your needs.

Another problem with one long coil is resistance to flow.  The longer you make the tube the slower the water will flow.  A manifold  can solve both these problems. Fabricating a manifold may appeal to some DIY folks, but hot tubs often use manifolds and so they are readily available for about $10.00
Water Manifold 2"S x 2"S (6) 3/4" Ports



It's been pointed out to me that a better choice would be CPVC due to the high temperatures these systems can reach especially when not in use and the water is not moving.

Flow Gaurd MultiPort CPVC Manifold

By using several short lengths you will increase the effective diameter and reduce the resistance as well as the demands on your pump.

Don't forget to use a high temperature water pump.  They are easy to find, but this is an important consideration that could be over looked.

Also the roof may look like an ideal place for a solar collector but you will have to have a pump tha can provide enough head pressure which will influence the cost of the pump and your choice of locations for the collector.

Sunday, October 13, 2013

Microbial Fuel Cell

On October 4th 2013 I began an experimenting with Microbial Fuel Cells.   My initial experiment consisted of a piece of carbon fiber cloth 36” x 4” which I placed in the water of my aquaponic system.  The bacteria grew on this cloth.  After nine days  I measured the voltage at .97 millivolt (mv) using a stainless steel cathode of approximately 6"x8" .   

http://backyardaquaponics.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=17566&p=416193#p416193

While there are some similarities Microbial Fuel Cells are not the same as a BEAMR (BioElectrochemically Assisted Microbial Reactor) which is basically a Hydroxy gas generator.   

Several years ago I was very involved with the creation of Hydroxy gas.  Commonly known as HHO or Browns Gas.  By using electrolysis and electrolyte such as KOH (Potassium Hydroxide)  water is separated into hydrogen (H2) and oxygen (O2) in a 2:1 molar ratio.  These two gases violently wish to be reunited and all it takes is a spark.  This gas has some good applications, but it requires more power to create the hydroxy gas than the gas will return as a fuel source.  Some people have found benefit when injected along with fuel into engines that do not have
I mention this because you may find this technique while researching Microbial Fuel Cells and fall victim to the misguided ideas surrounding the creation of hydroxy gas.  

Microbial Fuel Cells are batteries created by the energy produced by the bacteria.  I can't say it any better than what has been written on Wikipedia so I will quote the entire first paragraph.

"A microbial fuel cell (MFC) or biological fuel cell is a bio-electrochemical system that drives a current by mimicking bacterial interactions found in nature. MFCs can be grouped into two general categories, those that use a mediator and those that are mediator-less. The first MFCs, demonstrated in the early 20th century, used a mediator, this is a chemical that transfers electrons from the bacteria in the cell to the anode. Mediator-less MFCs are a more recent development dating to the 1970s; in this type of MFC bacteria in mediator-less MFCs typically have electrochemically active redox proteins such as cytochromes on their outer membrane that can transfer electrons directly to the anode.[1] Since the turn of the 21st century MFCs have started to find a commercial use in the treatment of wastewate"

A little more research indicates that a MFC (Microbial Fuel Cell) must use anaerobic conditions. In aerobic conditions bacteria are free to use near by oxygen for the electron they wish to transfer. The anaerobic condition leaves only the cathode exposed to available electrons from oxygen. This creates the electrical difference between the anode and the cathode.

But I did measure a very small voltage of  97 mv on Oct 12 2013, so maybe maybe the process would be better in an anaerobic condition, but still prove viable in aerobic conditions. I'll come back to this in a few weeks and post the results.  It may improve as the bacteria continues to grow on the cloth.

It was just two days ago that I measured 97 mv... I tested the voltage again today Oct 14 2013 and found that if I moved the cathode closer to the anode I could get 300 mv!









Weedponic Garden

Many people are growing with hydroponics and aquaponics because they wish to reduce their water consumption,  eat healthy organic food,  live in a more sustainable way, and reduce the carbon foot print of their existence.

Soil based gardening has become dependent upon outside resources but Aquaponics is even more reliant.    Some of those resources are affordable only because fossil fuels are still available.  If those resources were not available how would you feed your fish?  How would you supply nutrients such as iron, calcium, potassium, phosphorous and magnesium.

Aquaponics has good intentions, but it is not a sustainable agricultural method.  I currently do not have all the answers, but I'm working on it. Here are some options and food for thought

I'll start by defining the problems.   Fish food is made from grains and wild caught fish comprised mostly of fish with little commercial value, and processing waste. But the fishing industry is not sustainable, and much of the grain used to produce fish food is GMO;  raised using large amounts of fossil fuels for fertilizer and machinery in order to produce a profit while neglecting the environment. For more about the analysis of fish food read http://www.oscarfish.com/fish-food-ingredients.html.
The result is that similar to feeding cattle enormous amounts of gain are used to produce a small amount of meat.  


But we don't need to feed our fish commercially produced fish food.


David Epstein at Bioponica has been feeding his fish only vegetable matter.  This is a great way to avoid dependance upon fish food.


Live food such as Black Soldier Fly larvae, fly maggots, worms, and other insects are also good sources of protein.


But do we even need fish?  If you are like me an only eat fish a few times per year, maybe you will consider bioponics which replaces fish and fish food with humonia.  Bioponics is hydroponics using readily available urine rather than fertilizers made with fossil fuels.

Humonia (aged urine) is a strong source of nitrogen and potassium plus it provides many other trace minerals.   I have been growing with nothing but humonia, epsom salts and Fe-DTPA for quite a while, and I like the freedom it allows.  Humonia will always be available, but iron and magnesium are still missing and a bit more difficult to make at home.

I personally have no problem using humonia for a nutrient source in a bioponic garden.  Human urine shouldn't contain pathogens or bacteria if you are healthy.  Aged urine turns to ammonia.  But I get that some people would prefer not to collect their urine, or use it anywhere near a vegetable garden.  So I have been exploring various avenues to find a source of nutrients.

What if you could grow vegetables without any animal input including humonia.  Similar to David Epstein's plant matter for fish food; bags of plant matter can provide nearly everything a garden will need.  For example coffee grounds can provide the following.
Nitrogen: 2.28 percent
Phosphorus: 0.06 percent
Potassium: 0.6 percent
http://www.sunset.com/garden/earth-friendly/starbucks-coffee-compos...


A little more research turned up these sources of nutrients:
Weed/Herb Tea
    Nettles, comfrey, yellow dock, burdock, horsetail and chickweed - Potassium
Cornmeal - phosphorus and nitrogen
Molasses  – [ acts as a chelate[Calcium,Magnesium,Potassium,Iron]
Banana - potassium
Coffee Grounds -  phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, copper, sodium and chloride
Egg Shells - 93% calcium carbonate
Seaweed – trace elements
Manure – nitrogen
Grass Clippings – nitrogen
Humonia –  nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium
Wood Ash - calcium  and potassium
Epsom Salts - magnesium and sulfur
Fish-Emulsion - nitrogen, potassium, phosphorous, and amino acids

Vermicompost -
  • • Organic Carbon 20.43 – 30.31 %
  • • Nitrogen 1.80 – 2.05 %
  • • Phosphorus 1.32 – 1.93 %
  • • Potassium 1.28 – 1.50 %
  • • Carbon : Nitrogen 14-15 : 1 %
  • • Calcium 3.0 – 4.5 %
  • • Magnesium 0.4 – 0.7 %
  • • Sodium 0.02 – 0.30 %
  • • Sulphur Traces to 0.40 %
  • • Iron 0.3 – 0.7 %
  • • Zinc 0.028 – 0.036 %
  • • Manganese Traces to 0.40 %
  • • Copper 0.0027 – 0.0123 %
  • • Boron 0.0034 – 0.0075 %
  • • Aluminium Traces to 0.071 %
  • • Cobalt, Molybdenum Present in available form
Grass clippings - Over 3 days the Ammonia increases significantly  Plenty of Phosphate too
Soaking grass clippings for 3 days produced a lot of ammonia and phosphate

The iron in vermicompost and planting nitrifying legumes are the only sources I've found. Tests will have to be done.   I have yet to grow a garden this way but it appears a lot will be learned when I do.  Perhaps you too will set up an experimental Weedsponic Garden and let me know your results.

Thursday, August 29, 2013

Aquaponics Is Not A Sustainable Form of Agriculture


Aquaponics has been touted as a way to save the world from the destructive and wasteful agriculture practices used on most commercial farms which is clearly not sustainable.. But just as raising cattle for meat, raising fish on farmed grain is also costly to the environment.
 
Much of the grain used to produce fish food is GMO;  raised using large amounts of fossil fuels for fertilizer and machinery in order to produce a profit while neglecting the environment.

Perhaps aquaponics will find a place in outer space, but while we are still here on Earth, aquaponics will remain a romantic attraction blindly portrayed as sustainable, and ecologically sound by those who fall in love with the technical wonder of soil less gardening.  For some the full experience includes the ability to automate, and record  data from sensors.

Clean, neatly segmented water processing stations each providing an optimum environment for bacteria, roots and water quality at the expense of outside energy and natural resources.  Computerized systems can even be monitored and operated remotely from a smart phone miles away.
 
Certainly easing the harvest of wild fish is a good thing, but we often overlook the large picture. Kinda like growing corn for ethanol. What a short sighted idea that was. Aquaponics is not easing the harvest of wild fish as well as it appears. The food we feed to the fish is made from wild caught fish. And while that source is comprised mostly of fish with little commercial value, and waste from the processing it still places a burden on the wild fish population. For more about the analysis of fish food read http://www.oscarfish.com/fish-food-ingredients.html.


Aquaponics uses less water than soil based farming, but it comes at a cost is the environment, and fossil reserves which seems to be overlooked. All along I have promoted energy efficiency in aquaponics, but the numbers still come up short as I demonstrated in another article 'Energy to Produce Vegetables' .  The caloric value of the food produced does not match the energy required to operate an aquaponic system. The pumps require more energy than is grown by a very large factor; sequestering far less carbon than it releases. Some aquapons are supplementing light, and heat during the cold season. This puts aquaponics so far into energy debt that it becomes absurd.

This government funded aquaponics research system has deep pockets and no regard for wasted energy



Bottom line - aquaponics is fun, it's interesting, but it's not saving the world as a sustainable form of agriculture.

So what can we do?  The answer lies in simply helping, and growing with nature rather than in spite of nature.

Plant in soil, according to the seasons.  Conserve water by creating collection and recollection areas,  use green mulch,  alternate and grow companion crops, build healthy soil with micro-nutrients, and microorganisms, never let the soil lay bare,  Use only safe pesticides if needed.  Never waste a good thing - compost and use compost tea and EM.   Use bio-char,  humus and rock minerals.  Gather leaves in the fall or just let them provide the natural benefits to your soil by leaving them alone.  Pay attention to micro-climates, and take advantage of shady areas near fruit trees.  Let some beneficial weeds grow in order to bring nutrients up into the top soil.  Love the worms and bees, and feed them well.  Plant flowers among your vegetables.  Do not till your soil.


Wear sun block, and a hat!
Wicking beds and Hugelkultur beds conserve water

The Basics of Natural Farming





The common theme between Hugelkulture and Wicking Beds is water supplied from below the soil.  These are both considered Permaculture.  It may very well work in our favor to integrate these methods with aquaponics.  This new hybrid system is called Earthan Beds

Sunday, December 9, 2012

Rocket Mass Stove

I've mentioned this before, but this is such a neat way to heat that I wanted to make an entry just for Rocket Mass Stoves and include the best videos and links I have found.  

Paul Wheaton from Permies.com demonstrates in this first 2 minute video just how efficient the Rocket Mass Stove is.  You see this video frame here where this lady has her face over the flue pipe.  The heat and fumes from the flue are warm not hot and very clean.  I hope you will explore the videos at  Permies.com.  It is one of my favorite sites!

 



Efficiency is the key to heating a green house.

This simple low tech stove with exceptionally high efficiency is something anybody could build.
Why do we continue the spend thousands on air tight stoves that pollute and burn more wood?




Below is another favorite video educator.  Rob Torcellini shows the details of how he built a Rocket Mass Stove to heat his greenhouse.  The same stove could heat your house.

Add a self feed bin for pellets!  This is how Rob did it.

Rob has taken the Rocket Mass Stove to a very sophisticated level. His excellent engineering skills and preparations while building his green house have payed off well.

Hear are some more ideas




I've included this video because it demonstrates the effectiveness of a rocket mass stove


Thursday, November 15, 2012

Equipped for Success!

Here are a few special tools, pieces of equipment and ideas that may contribute to your aquaponic gardening success.



Total Dissolved Solids meter
Bluelab Commercial Truncheon® Meter
This is a Total Dissolved Solids meter.
Total Dissolved Solids concentration has a direct effect on plant growth rates.


When asked "How do you measure total dissolved solids?"   Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr. said 
Couple of ways. I use one of these for example:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traditional_handheld_refractometer
Or you can measure it by how well the water conducts electricity since it is mostly the sodium, calcium and magnesium salts that cause the problems:
http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/hydro/2004072354016749.html
Some suggest that measuring EC is more accurate and give you a better measure of how salts are affecting your plants.

Before shopping for a TDS or Salinity Meter read these
http://www.thermo.com/eThermo/CMA/PDFs/Articles/articlesFile_11377.pdf
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-04/rhf/feature/index.php

Dissolved Oxygen Meter 
These are one of the most valuable instruments you can own if you are stocking in high density. I believe there are two types of DO Meters.   I've been told profession aquaculturist  generally do not use the type with a membrane.  But DO Meters can be very expensive and any good meter is probably better than none at all.
I will have to do more research and add to this post as I learn more.

Ceramic Metal Halide 
Ceramic Metal Halide bulbs are efficient and the full spectrum of light is as close to the Sun's spectrum as you can get.  
Supplemental lighting will permit you to grow 365 days a year. 
Remember to wear shades and sun block!  CMH really are FULL spectrum.
I ordered mine from  
http://advancedtechlighting.com/cmhmain.htm





This is a High Pressure Sodium (HPS) replacement bulb.  The important thing to know about the ballast is that it should be a Copper Core HPS ballast.  I also bought my ballast kit for about $69.00 from the same company Advanced Tech Lighting.



Rocket Mass Stove
Efficiency is the key to heating a green house.  Check out thess videos about Rocket Mass Stoves






Add a self feed bin for pellets!




Greenhouse Glazing

Greenhouse plastics can diffuse light and transmit as much as 90%  of the Sun's light
Agricultural Solutions - Polyethylene Greenhouse Films
Interstate Plastics - Polycarbonate twinwall

Speaking of greenhouses, here are a few ideas


Something as simple as this canopy frame could be used for a basic frame with a greenhouse film.

 Or you can go a little bit better with a FarmTek greenhouse



 My ideal green house would be partially bermed in with a massive wall on the North side and glazing  on the South side.   Energy conservation is key to making a greenhouse work.  Here are some examples.






 

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Timed Flood and Drain

My pursuit of an energy efficient system continues.   Yesterday after about 6 months of flawless operation my bell siphon failed to drain.   This inspired me to find something simpler, less expensive and more dependable.  I remembered this conversation on AquacultureHub

By simply providing small drain holes at the bottom of the media bed a Hybrid Flood & Drain / Ebb & Flow can be created.   I have long been a proponent of Ebb & Flow due to the energy savings.

Here's how it works:
It's pretty simple.  There's a stand pipe that keeps the water from exceeding a set level about 1-1/2" below the gravel, and a weep hole (about 5/16") that drains the water out.  The pump comes on just a few times per day.  While the pump is filling the grow bed the water seeps out.  But the pump fills the tank much faster than the water leaves, so it fills.  The timer need only be set on long enough for the grow bed to fill.
In the Summer you may need to run the pump more often, but I run mine 3 times per day all year long.  The gravel stays moist and the water is aerated sufficiently for the fish.
By running the pump only a few times per day you save utility costs, and there is no siphon to fail.  I inserted a capped 1" pipe at the bottom of one of my grow beds and drilled my weep hole in it so that I could see it and this makes cleaning the hole very easy.  I can remove the cap to get inside if need be.  I've been running my timed flood and drain for several months and the hole has not clogged, but it does not hurt to inspect it once in a while. 
The timer I use is just a cheap $3.00 indoor timer with a plastic food storage container over it.  I poked a couple holes through the plastic, and plugged the timer in.  It stays nice and dry this way, and  easily accessed by removing the cover of the container.


Here are the conversations between John Burgess, aka RupertofOZ,   Glenn Martinez,  and J. Linden Rose.


System Design Considerations

Comment by J. Linden Rose on August 31, 2012 .
   Many people use gallon of fish tank to gallon of grow bed ratios. This has a minor flaw, because nutrient uptake and removal by plants is directly related solar surface area, and only indirectly related to grow bed volume assuming root development plays a large role in your particular crop. But before you can say something like 3 sq. ft. of grow bed per gallon of fish tank, you need to think about stocking density and feed conversion ratio (FCR).
   In this industry everyone is taught to sell their tilapia when they are no more than a year old. The reasoning is that when fish are small and young, the FCR is smaller, and less feed becomes more fish faster.  That's useful thinking in the aquaculture world, but lacks a certain breadth of consideration in the AP world. You might consider an aquaculture strategy that focuses on growing larger, older fish.  Remember that AP systems produce about $4 of produce for every $1 of fish in a Rakocy style system which has been optimized around fish production.  By lengthening the grow-out period for your fish, the FCR will increase, but it will also stabilize allowing you to have better control over the nutrient stream to the much more important produce side. Additionally, higher FCR means more nutrients end up in the plants than in the fish... which is where the money is. This in turn should imply that larger fish lead to larger grow beds.
   With that in mind, its probably a good idea to see your system as one that will go thru many changes when it is new. Then as your fish mature, and your nutrient stream stabilizes, you will be able to fine tune the grow bed surface area to match.
   Gravel beds, a type of fluidized bed reactor, are the oldest and most established form of modern aquaponics, and were first used in the work of Woods Hole researcher John Todd at his New Alchemy Institute, and Dr. Mark McMurtry at NC State.
   Dr. Jim Rakocy, a RAS (Recirculating Aquaculture Systems) aquaculture specialist at the University of the Virgin Islands in St. Croix, abandoned gravel beds because he wanted to work around the issue of sludge build-up. To avoid sludge issues, he developed raft culture, which in the absence of a bed reactor, required settling and degassing tanks. This system falls short of optimal for several reasons: 1) you're spending money on nutrients your plants need that you then remove from the system wasting resources 2) his floating rafts blocks most of the air-water interface for gas exchange intensifying the need to waste electrify on compensatory aeration, and 3) this system design is fish-centric, obsessed with how many fish you can cram into a barrel, when Jim's own publications showed that the aquaculture side was a minor contributor to revenues, and 4) only a very limited number of plants can tolerate having their roots immersed in water 24/7.  Typically plants with low nutrient requirements and low ability to scrub nutrients from the water.
   Tom Speraneo, is credited with the first use of tilapia in AP systems, but also is credited with cycling the water level in the gravel beds, creating enormous amounts of temporary thin water surfaces for gas exchange, and facilitating aerobic RAS waste processing. But the other interesting development was that it made the beds capable of sustaining active vermiculture, which further breaks down and decomposes the solid wastes, and restores lost nutrients instead of wastefully removing them.  This seems to have been confirmed by the systems popularized in Australia by Joel Malcolm and Murray Hullam, with Murray claiming to have systems that have run without any waste removal being necessary for over 3 years.  Similar results have occurred in Hawaii with Glenn Martinez's system.
   Using the archaic meaning of vermiculated of "worm eaten", we can call these vermiculated fluidized bed reactors, and their use should free up a great deal more nutrient from the same amount of feed input, allowing you to focus on the much more profitable produce production side of an AP system.
   With that in mind, Wilson Lennard has shown that raft cultures seem to be slightly more productive with low nutrient crops like lettuce, whereas most crops cannot be grown in rafts at all.  Since lettuce has a very fast seed to crop cycle, it can provide stead cash flow while waiting for more valuable crops to mature in the gravel beds, and with all the extra nutrients available, there's plenty of reason to have both in your system design.  This will also increase the total system volume, which is good for fish, and if you design your deep water wells with tops that are not floating on the water, you'll have greatly enhanced gas exchange surfaces.
   It would probably be a good idea to avoid NFT (Nutrient Film Technique) completely if your system includes fish production, because a thin layer of water spread out over long distances is basically a heat exchanger, which will cause diurnal temperature swings in your fish tank greatly adding to their stress levels.
Comment by Glenn Martinez on September 1, 2012
   First, most of us have fallen into a trap of running our aquaponic (AP) systems 24 hours a day. Think again....perhaps it should be shut down at night, drain the bio-filter (cinder beds) and let the system rest at night. Keep pumping the AIR to the fish, but stop running the water thru the vii-filter and float beds. This saves energy. It also allows the fish water to build up ammonia that will then be sent the bio-filter beds. Very quickly the bio-filter will convert the ammonia to nitrates.
   As long as you do not let the ammonia build up in the fish tank, you are okay. It is recommended drain the bio-filter bed when it is not circulating, as leaving water stilling in the bio-filter, seems to deplete the oxygen (everything is composting) and kills the worms and oxygen loving bacteria....
   The worms in our AP systems (cinder beds) eat the fish solids, breaking them down. Most important to keep in mind that our siphon system is NOT inside the bio-filter, but removed and located in an container that will drain the vii-filter "drip dry" at each flush. All of our bio-filter beds are "double tray" or false bottom, to allow drip dry draining. The drained bio-filter bed will NOT dry out over night and the plants do not suffer.
   To drain the bio-filter beds at night, place a small hole in the stand pipe of the bell siphon or install a small drain tube to drain the bio-filter bed when the water stops coming in for any reason , like a power failure.
For balanced nutrition, add vermicast or compost tea. That will supply all the micro and macro nutrients you need to grow NUTRITIOUS food, kala etc.
Food for thought.
Glenn, Olomana Gardens, Hawaii
Comment by John Burgess on October 17, 2012

   "To drain the bio-filter beds at night, place a small hole in the stand pipe of the bell siphon or install a small drain tube to drain the bio-filter bed when the water stops coming in for any reason , like a power failure."
Just run a standard overflow standpipe... and timer... flood & drain configuration... ditch the siphons altogether...
   Part of such a configuration... is the (generally) two small (6mm) holes at the base of the standpipe.. to allow the grow bed to "drain" during the timer off period...
   And utilising a timer based F&D... means it's simple as... to turn the beds off or limit/extend the F&D cycles.. during the night... or as a response to climatic variables...

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Intermitent Pump Systems


  My goal with these designs is to save energy by running a pump intermittently rather than 24/7 using an ebb&flow design, but the problem with ebb&flow is the regurgitation of solid fish waste and uneaten food.

  I think these ideas would only be worth while if the system were small.  With a large system the cost of circulating 24/7 would be applied to a much larger grow bed array.   But for a small system where pennies count and the harvest is small, I think there are ways to make an ebb&flow work.  Here are a couple ideas I've had.

   I have drawn this system that would use the ebb & flow method and return clean water to the fish tank.  Water would be held in the settling/filter tank while the pump is on.  Then the clean water would return to the fish tank when the pump is off.
   An overflow would allow excess water to flow back to the fish tank. 
While the pump is filling the settling tank a solenoid valve would hold the water in the grow beds and settling tank.  A timer would turn the pump and the normally open solenoid valve off allowing the grow beds and settling tank to drain back to the fish tank.
   This design is an improvement over the classic ebb&flow design because the settling tank allows for the water to be cleaned before returning to the fish tank.


Here is another concept drawing which uses vertical gardening and a reservoir/settling tank.  The water is pumped to the reservoir with an intermittent timer.  An overflow tube would return excess water to the fish tank.
Filtered drip lines from the reservoir would supply a constant water flow to the vertical tubes.  If made of fiberglass reenforced weed cloth the water would be returned to the fish tank with plenty of aeration.



With proper filtration around the pump the system could be set up as simple as this. 
The pump would be on a timer.  The vertical media does not require constant flow.

UPDATE 12/23/2012
The ebb&flow design above is a bit complicated.  A design that has been working for two months can be seen at [The Perfect System]


Thursday, August 16, 2012

The Darkside of Aquaponics

This is a link to a discussion I started about the reality of aquaponic gardening. 
If you are thinking you would like to design an aquaponic system, and grow and abundance of food in a perfect nutrient cycle - Then READ THIS FIRST.

What about those claims of "Lettuce in 5 weeks"?  Is it true? 
Lettuce at 52 days Utility cost $67.00
Lettuce at 58 days no supplemental light.
LOL... I guess you could have eaten these plants at 5 weeks.

The aquaponics industry is full of wild claims.  You may have heard about the balance aquaponics brings to gardening.  Supposedly the fish food will provide all the nutrients save maybe the chelated iron.  If so why is there so much discussion about balancing nutrients within the system?

The claims that vegitables will grow faster stronger more disease resistant are hype.  Aquaponics is not that simple. There areaquaponic farms that consistently produce above average crops, but be aware they do it with professional farming techniques and pay close attention to the details.  It's like anything else; it only works if you are well trained to do the job.

So you say "I'll take a class and become a professional aquaponic farmer".   I'm not going to tell you all these classes are a sham, but the truth is most who teach aquapponics do so to make ends meet.  They often don't even run a profitable aquaponics farm.   This industry is so new that there are no real credentials.  When's the last time you heard someone say they were majoring in aquaponics?  Beware of the scams.

You may be wondering why I still practice aquaponics.  It's certainly not for profit, or to lower my food bill.  I simply like doing it, but after one year I have decided to sell my fish, and convert to Bioponics.  I've also decided to plant with the seasons and not expect much growth during the Winter.  No more heating bills. No more lighting bills. No more fish food. 


Thursday, August 2, 2012

The Bottom Line On Aquaponics

(Update link at bottom)

My venture into aquaponics has been an experiment, and while I have attempted to keep the costs reasonable I have made some poor choices and at times had to compromise practical energy use in order to experiment. But this is what experimentation requires in order to learn.

Below is fairly an accurate assessment of my costs.  I used a 'Kill-A-Watt' meter for accurate measurement of each appliance.  I have chosen to use $0.30 per KWH because I'm so far over baseline electric use.  It's really embarrassing.  

This spreadsheet is available in Open Office format.


A major cost of operating my indoor system has been movement of air.   Air is important, so finding ways to move it less expensively will be my first priority.  Currently I'm using a 20" box fan, but I will replace it with a smaller fan that uses only 30 Watts.

Air stones are also required whether inside or outside.  I'm using a Hydrofarm 52 Watt 70-LPM Active Aqua Commercial Air Pump.  Several smaller pumps may be sufficient, but this one pump supplies all my needs.

Moving water is also a large expense.   External pumps are less expensive on a per gallon basis, and with the newly expanded outdoor system I will be upgrading to a larger external pump as indicated in the spread sheet.

So far my systems have all relied upon a constant flow of water.  I am not fond of Ebb & Flow systems and have no plan to switch over,  but an Ebb & Flow system where the pumps are run intermittently to save energy may be the only way to cut this expense for some.   My plan is to expand my systems to the point that production out paces the cost of pumping water.

I have also learned that buried tanks are only somewhat helpful in stablizing the temperatures.
For example,our weather has consistently ranged from 66F and night to 100F during the day for about a week, and has been near that for even longer.
My 10' x 3' 1600 gallon above ground pool is 75F
My  1300 gallon fish pond with a 3'x7' above ground bio-filter is 72F
My IBC system uses 3 - 275 gallon IBC's.  The sump tank is buried and the fish tank is not.  The last IBC is cut in half, and serves as two above ground grow beds.  The temperature is 75F
My climate controlled indoor system is kept between 70F and 85F.  The water is 75F.

I have measured my pond during the winter at 58F, but this year I will keep better records of all these systems.  Last winter I supplemented the heat in the indoor system about 4 hours per day using a 1250W inline electric heater.

These costs can only be justified if the systems were to produce thousands of dollars worth of food.
My assessment is that large scale commercial systems may be able to  break even or better, but small backyard aquaponic enthusiasts with 100 sq ft of grow bed are going to face lower returns while still incurring many of the same costs.

Green house gardening with supplemental light during the winter's short day light is expensive, and demands that the green house be built with plenty of insulation.  My indoor system is proof that maintaining temperature in an insulated green house is feasible.  But the added cost of moving air and supplementing the light adds a significant expense which may only be justified in a commercial system where year round product is expected by the clients.  To be fair I recently read of a commercial system where 30,000 lettuce were grown in a 500 sq ft indoor room under artificial lights.  No financial records were available.

In conclusion barring the many other disastrous things that can go wrong in artificial systems, it seems 
outdoor farming is the least expensive, and may be the only economical option for backyard aquaponists.  Living in a temperate climate, and raising high demand crops, and fish appropriate to the local climate on a scale that offsets the base expenses could also help make an aquaponic venture economic feasibility.  But amortizing the cost of building, and maintaining the system has not even been address in this study.  Also solar heating and photovoltaic system integration may help improve the economy, but so far I have not incorporated this into my systems.

The bottom line is that it's either a fun hobby with expenses that will in all likelihood never find a return beyond the pure enjoyment of producing food and overcoming the many problems involved, or a high risk business venture.  

Indoor System
Outdoor IBC System


I'm happy to say my energy efforts have begun to work!

UPDATE:  This is an idea I have for an outdoor system that will consume only 1.2KWH per day!


Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Energy Audit

I'm writing this to get my head around what I've just found out.  I hope it provides you with food for thought.

I've noticed our electric bill climb as I continue to add to my aquaponic systems, so using a Watt meter I did an energy audit .  
The first thing to surprise me is the cost of moving air.   I'm using a whole house fan and a 20" box fan.  Both use more than I expected.  The whole house fan consumes 530W, and the box fan 90W. 

My submersible pumps are not too bad for submersibles, but one is not as large as I would like.
The Alpine Hurricane 2400 GPH is drawing 129W.  It is delivering 1750 GPH at 4 foot head.
The undersized 'No Name' pump I am using in the outside IBC system is drawing 20W and delivers 268 GPH at 4 foot head.


Expanding the grow beds in this IBC system is going to require a larger pump, so I just purchased an AZFlo 2400/4000 External Pump for 299.00.  It will deliver 1900 GPH using 105W at 4 foot head..  This is 20W less than the Alpine Hurricane delivering 1700 GPH.  If I were to replace that submersible with this external pump I would break even in 5.7 years.

Now here's something I find interesting.  Pump power usage is non-linear. These tables show as head increases GPH decreases as would be expected, but the Watts seem to peak around the midpoint of maximum head. 



I have also have a Sequence 3600 700 series pump on my pond.  139W delivers 2820 GPH at a 4 foot head.  As you can see the external pumps are a lot more economical.

Sunday, July 29, 2012

Choosing a Pump

The first consideration is external or submersible.  The reasons you may wish to go with an external pump is power consumption and GPH.  Submersibles are easier to install, and generally less expensive, but the most efficient pumps are external. Some pumps can be run as either external inline or submersible.

This is not to say all external pumps are efficient. Many are power gluttons so be sure to check    
Some pumps actually consume less than the rated value.  Perhaps they rate their pumps at maximum power dissipation before failure.  We can only go by the number they specify unless you have access to the pump and make your own measurements.
For example a Max-Flo 960 GPH for $106 will be less expensive at the end of the year compared to an ActiveAqua 1000 GPH for $57.00.
They both pump about the same GPH, but the Max-Flo uses 35 Watts less energy.
That will save you 25 KWH per month if run 24/7.

External pumps generally move more water.   My experience has shown that waterfalls need at least 2500 to 3000 GPH.   Aquaponic systems generally require a pump that match the size of the fish tank.  I've read 2-1/2 times the size of the tank with head loss is about right.  That ratio is probably negotiable.

Head pressure is the height the pump stops pumping water.  Some pumps are designed to move water efficiently with little change in height.  Others are designed to lift water.  You will have to find a pump that fulfills your needs without loosing too much efficiency to lift.  In the comparisons below my calculations for Gallons / Watt are based on zero lift.  Your final decision should be calculated with your required lift in mind.  You will have to consult the head loss specifications which are generally provided. 

If you choose to use a submersible you should be aware that some are filled with transformer oil.  Hardly something you would want to leak into your fish tank or pond.  I've had it happen twice so make certain it says No Oil.  Oil is used to offset the water pressure, and keep it out of the motor compartment.  But there are better ways to deal with this.

Epoxy filled pumps encase the motor winding in epoxy.   The permanent magnet which drives the impeller is allowed to sit in the water.  Epoxy filled pumps are in my opinion the best way to go if you are buying a submersible pump.  Oil filled are OK as a utility pump such as pumping out a flooded basement.

The impeller is often driven by way of a V-notched disk which allows it to slip if it becomes stuck, but the V-notch often becomes worn, and then impeller fails to pump any water at all.  So I try to avoid pumps that use this cheap V-notch clutch.   Other  methods use magnetically connected impellers or direct drive impellers.

Continuous duty operation is important to both a pond or aquaponic system.  The most vulnerable parts are the impeller and the bearings.  Some pumps are designed to allow these parts to be replaced.  Others are designed to be thrown away or the parts are so expensive it becomes a throw away.

Quiet operation is a consideration.  As the bearings wear any external pump will become louder, but it's nice to start out quiet, and when you begin to hear the pump it's time to think about repairs or replacement as it will not be long before it fails. 



Some of the more efficient pumps are listed below.
Submersible pumps in the  700 - 3100  GPH range
External        pumps in the 2400 - 4000 GPH range.

External Inline Pumps
Dolphin 115V Amp Master Series Pump
3900 GPH
161 Watts (24.2 G/W)
 $392.06
ReeFlo 2500/4300 External Pump with Saltwater Seals
2500 or 4300 GPH
105 Watts  (23.8 G/W)
or
4300 GPH
175 Watts  (24.6 G/W)
$299.00
AZFlo 2400/4000 External Pump by ReeFlo
2400 or 4000 GPH
105 Watts  (22.9 G/W)
or
4000 GPH
175 Watts  (22.9 G/W)
$309.00
PondMaster Supreme Inline/Direct Drive HyDrive Skimmer Pond Pump
Saltwater OK
3200 GPH
200 Watts  (16.0 G/W)
$217.82
Pondmaster Magnetic Drive Waterfall/Skimmer Pond Pump
2000 GPH
150 Watts  (13.3 G/W)
$139.00
Alpine Waterfall Hurricane Pond Pump
3100 GPH
175 Watts  (17.7 G/W)
$139.99
CalPump Waterfall Pond Pump
3500 GPH
205 Watts  (17.1 G/W)
$149.00

For many years I  have used a
Sequence 750 Pump 3600SEQ12 -3600 GPH
They seem to last about 3 years which is when the warranty runs out.
3600 GPH at zero head and 2400 at six feet.
They consume 139 Watts  ( 25.9 G/W)
and cost $289.00
 

Submersible Pumps
Laguna Fountain And Statuary Water Pond Pump
750 GPH
112 Watts  (6.7 G/W)
$90.00
Pondmaster Mag Drive Pond Pump
700 GPH
60 Watts  (11.7 G/W)
$94.99
Pondmaster Mag Drive Pond Pump
950 GPH
93 Watts  (10.2 G/W)
$109.99
Alpine Hurricane Pump
3100 GPH
175 Watts (17.7 G/W)
120.00

All but the Alpine Hurricane pump are available at AZ Ponds
I have bought many pumps from AZ Ponds and like doing business with them.
I used to like doing business with them. This last time they failed to send a tracking number.  After I called they said they would call back and never have.  They are on my shit list.

I also have a submersible Alpine Hurricane Pump 2400GPH
2400 GPH at zero head and 1751 at six feet.
The specs show that it consumes 157 Watts  (15.3 G/W),
but my measurements show that it uses only 128 Watts for (18.8 G/W)
It costs $129.00, but I found  on sale for $58.00!
This is a really nice Oil-Free, Magnetic-driven, Epoxy Protected, Ceramic Shaft & Impeller pump with a three year warranty.

Here is another excellent article about pumps.

Friday, May 11, 2012

Sage Advice

I will say right up front that I don't know as much as some other people about aquaponic systems, but I am a General Building Contractor so I know how to build stuff and I have experience with green houses and gardening.

This post will be an ever expanding list of considerations for those who are attempting to build an aquaponic system based on what I have learned.

To start with here is some advice I just parted out to someone who is planning to build a green house.

The problem with green houses is over heating and freezing:


My advice would be not to glaze the North side or North Roof.   Very little light gain and a lot of insulation lost.
If you live in a dry climate include evaporative cooling.
The sides and North wall should be insulated as heavily as you can afford. 

Place the fan as close to the peak as possible.   Squirrel cage fans move the most air.  Stone or brick walls are good for thermal mass and will help even the temperature swings. Water barrels are even better, but thermal mass is not as effective as insulation in controlling the environment and water barrels take up a lot of space.

My grow room is insulated with R19 walls and ceiling, the floor is insulated with R7.5 over a slab, and the tanks are insulated with R11 on all sides.  Total area glazed is 40 sq. ft.with single pane glass.
The grow bed is 25 sq. ft. adjacent to the window.

1000 gallons of water in the tanks helps to keep the temperature steady.  Currently it is Spring and we have daytime temperatures of 90F and night time near 65F.  By ventilating during the night I have been able to maintain a tank temperature of 70F-75F.

When it gets hot I open the windows I used to use an evaporative cooling system, but the electrical expense was too high and I found that simply opening the windows was enough.  In the winter outside temperature range from 20 to 60F and I used about 17KWper day to maintain 72F in the tanks.  That was last year.  I am currently switching out my tilapia for catfish which do well in a cool water tank.  The goal is to grow food not waste money and energy doing it.

Here is a simple inexpensive green house design. 



Sump Tanks:
 
Sump tanks are good.  Sump tanks make maintenance easier, help maintain temperature, allow a constant water level in the fish tank.

Hydroton / Expanded Shale:
One thing that I find valuable about Hydroton and  Expanded Shale grow medium is Neutral PH and No BufferingInert is a KEY advantage.  When problems occur we always look at PH and if you don't know what affect the medium is having on the buffering then it adds one more unknown element to the problem.
Another advantage of Hydroton is that you can move your hands down into it.  This is great for transplanting.  Crushed rock is very hard on your hands and nails.   While it's not as good as Hydroton, adding some pea gravel to crushed rock will make it easier.
A disadvantage of Hydroton is that most of it floats.  Expanded Shale on the other hand will not float.

PH and water chemistry and nutrients:
I may need correcting here but  my motto is don't fuss with it if you don't need to.  Chelated Iron is about all you should have to add, but if the PH is above 7.8 you may need to lower it in order for the chelated iron to be effective.  Buffing from the growing media and local water supply may make the PH difficult to adjust.  GO SLOW.

Cycling:
Don't rush into placing fish until you have cycled the tank.  Cycle the tank before purchasing fish.  YES I repeated myself.  Cycle before adding fish!

Sick Fish:
SEA SALT cures a lot and is the least harmful treatment.   More fish die from people who try to treat their fish than from disease. More Information on SALT

Bell Siphons:
Use an air cap and a snorkel tube.  Click this line for more.

Self Built Tanks:
DO NOT UNDER ESTIMATE THE FORCES OF WATER!
Notice even this shallow tank is bowing from the pressure of water

If you are not in construction or have little experience with engineering, then consult with someone whom you can trust.  Your design may look strong, but the weight of water will destroy your tank while you stand in awe.

Under Ground Tanks

Where to Build:
I admire people who build their systems indoors.  I've seen beautiful systems in the house, and some on hardwood floors!   Maybe I'm just a klutz, but I think that's asking for trouble.  I can't tell you how much water I've spilled.  I'm not talking about the ever possible leak, I'm saying a lot of water gets spilled by accident, and I'd advise against building a system indoors.
Even if you are confident that you will never spill substantial amounts of water, then keep in mind the weight of system.  House's are not built to hold several tons of anything in a small space


Air Stones:
Air is highly advantageous.  It's good for fish and great for plants.  Use lots of air!
This raft has one air stone in the water.  Can you guess where?